楼主
《列女仁智图》卷(现藏北京故宫博物院)以西汉刘向《列女传》中的人物故事为表现内容,相传是东晋顾恺之的作品。不过,只要把这一画卷与同样归为顾恺之作品的《洛神赋 图》比较,就可以看出,这两卷作品在风格、样式以及所反映的社会风俗等各个方面都截然不同,明显分属于两个时代。《洛神赋图》处处显示它是一幅南北朝时期的典型作品, 《列女仁智图》的原本,则显然产生于比《洛神赋图》古老得多的年代。
《列女仁智图》中呈现了一种很特殊的服饰时尚——不论男女,都流行在衣袍外罩穿一件轻纱上衣,让人的形体整个笼罩在一片烟雾似的朦胧纱色里。这是汉代的流行风气,如湖 北江陵凤凰台一六八号汉墓中出土的一件女俑上的彩绘,就是表现在典型的西汉式长袍外,罩穿一层无领透明印花纱衣的样子。不过,《列女仁智图》(以及现藏大英博物馆的《 女史箴图》)最有意思的地方是,在画中,男性和女性一样热衷于身披轻纱,这是后代所没有的,也是我们今人难以想象的,然而,在汉代,这却是很平常的风气。
Wise and Benevolent Women (currently held in the Palace Museum in Beijing) is a scroll illustrating a number of the characters found within Biographies of Exemplary Women by Western Han scholar Liu Xiang. It is believed to be the work of Eastern Jin painter Gu Kaizhi. However, when comparing this scroll to Nymph of the Luo River, another known work by Gu Kaizhi, one can see clear differences in areas such as style and depiction of societal customs, distinctly divided between two different historical eras. While Nymph of the Luo River shows itself in all respects to be a work typical of the Northern and Southern Dynasties, Wise and Benevolent Women very clearly has its origins in a much earlier period.
Wise and Benevolent Women presents a particular fashion in clothing – for both men and women, it was fashionable to wear a light muslin jacket on top of one’s gown, making it seem as if one’s figure were shrouded in mist. This was a fashion of the Han Dynasty, as can be seen from designs on a wooden figure excavated from tomb #168 at Fenghuang Mountain in Jiangling county, Hubei. The figure is wearing typical Western Han-style robes, with a collarless, transparent, flower-print muslin garment on top. But the most interesting aspect of Wise and Benevolent Women (and of The Admonitions of the Instructress to the Court Ladies, currently held in the British Museum) is the fact that both the men and the women in the painting are fond of this light muslin garment draped over the shoulders. This garment did not appear in later periods, and it is a difficult thing for us to imagine today. But in the Han Dynasty, this was a very common fashion.